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January 14, 2006

Cruise: Day 8

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 8 (Debarkation at Galveston)

Jenny and I arise at 6:30, since debarkation begins about 7 and we are anxious to be off. We again need to hurry on account of Dog Boys, since they close at 2pm. Unfortunately, we don't actually debark until 10:30 (lesson: always sign up for Express Walk-Off unless your legs are actually broken), and there is construction (meaning bad traffic) in Houston, which puts us near Dog Boys at 3pm. We have called ahead to make sure someone will be there at 3, so this is OK. Unfortunately Eric takes several wrong turns on the twisty, identical, unlabeled streets leading to Dog Boys (entirely due to a lack of preparation), which puts us at Dog Boys at 3:30 due entirely to the intervention of a saintly Lutheran Good Samaritan. Nonetheless, they kindly allow us to pick up our dogs, who dash out to see us, climb in the back seat of the car, and pass out for about 6 hours (as they do every time they come home from the Ranch).

This is where the week turns tragic. We arrive home, tired and in need of a bathroom break, only to discover that our guinea pig Neil has some kind of terrible infection which has covered and inflamed his entire right eye. He had a sinus infection when we left, but we had left instructions with the pet sitter to take him to the vet immediately if he changed for the worse (and this is very much worse). Unfortunately it seems that the infection developed very rapidly, so the first anyone knows of it is when I greet Neil on arriving home. One emergency trip to the only open local vet later, we are given the news that the infection apparently backed up and exploded into his eye orbit, and that he is virtually certain to be permanently blind in that eye. Both of us feel completely terrible about this, although Neil himself is taking it like a trooper (good appetite and energy, and he was purring when we cuddled him, glad to see us). We're going to make sure he has the best possible care, of course, but both of us feel like if we'd just been here we could have caught it in time to save his sight in that eye.

Not really much to say after that; we've called everywhere in and out of town (including specialists at Texas A&M) and we're just going to have to see what happens. Wish Neil luck, he's a plucky little guy but he's going to need it.

January 13, 2006

Cruise: Day 7

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 7 (At Sea)

Today is, of course, Jenny's birthday. She got up early and watched the sun come up on the main deck (I had intended to go with her for this, but I thought she was going to the gym and failed to get up). We went and had breakfast, at which Jenny ordered the world's Largest, Blandest Bloody Mary (seriously, think Lauren's Amazing Technicolor 21st Birthday Drink, except in red and not very tasty). We then arrived at the Lotus Spa for a couple's massage. The parts of it that didn't hurt were quite nice :-D and I think we both enjoyed it, though we're not really "massage people".

After the massage we had a leisurely afternoon; then we dressed up nice and went to dinner. Awaiting us were a nice trio of peach-yellow roses (ordered by moi) and a custom entree of gorgonzola risotto and asparagus (ditto, though specified by the birthday girl originally), which was probably the best dinner all week. :) We fell asleep somewhat early in anticipation of early departure tomorrow.

January 12, 2006

Cruise: Day 6

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 6 (Cozumel)

Despite the fact that Cozumel is merely 9 miles away from Playa Del Carmen, across an open strait of water, it took us all night (5pm til 7am) to get from the latter to the former. I am not kidding. Scuttlebutt (okay, I eavesdropped) on the ship was that the delay was so that they could open the casino, shops, and bars, which they could only do in international waters. Indirect support for this is provided by our route, which was roughly 100 miles straight out into the Carribbean, a U-turn, and 91 miles straight back along the opposite heading. :-P

Cozumel was, a year ago, a tourist trap on par with Playa Del Carmen. Unfortunately, Wilma seems to have played the part of abusive spouse for Cozumel while leaving PDC largely untouched (at least as far as I was able to tell). The pier--steel-reinforced concrete--had been torn up for nearly its entire length, and there were no untouched trees I saw. Cozumel itself was a reprise of PDC, including the silver shops, though today we found a very pretty necklace that, while it does not match Jenny's imaginary specifications, is still attractive enough to make a dashing birthday present (largely to herself, as she haggled for it).

Our excursion for today was snorkeling; we put on borrowed snorkel masks, fins, and live preservers, and waded out into the painfully blue sea. It really was beautiful, which fails to explain the remarkably grumpy-looking white fish (with a furrowed gray brow) Jenny and I saw. Sadly, I neglected to purchase a waterproof camera, so there are no photos of that. The water was a tad bit cold for long exposure (wetsuits would have been nice), so after 45 minutes or so we hightailed it back to shore, but I did enjoy it (after I learned not to panic when breathing with my head under water ;). Next time perhaps we will snorkel something more exciting (we were scheduled to do a reef/wreck snorkel in canceled Grand Cayman).

Dinner tonight was ravioli and a sadly disappointing spinach flan (I know Jenny was looking forward to the flan). Tomorrow we have demanded a custom entree in observance of Jenny's birthday.

January 11, 2006

Cruise: Day 5

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 5 (Playa Del Carmen)

Most of Playa Del Carmen was spent at the Mayan city of Tulum, which turned out to be an excellent choice on our part. First off, the tour included lunch, and unlike other lunch-including tours in Mexico, this one was a) fully vegetarian and b) not half bad, though we did avoid both the fruit juice and the Bran Krakers. Whatever, beats the hell out of Enchiladas With Death Sauce.

Tulum itself was the very definition of idyllic--check the photo album for graphic proof. We met a very interesting Iguana, saw some interesting architecture, and admired paint that lasted over a thousand years without a refresher coat--impressive indeed. Like I said, check out the album.

Most of the rest of PDC is a tourist trap, similar to Costa Maya, but much larger. In fact, there are nearly 18 thousand (number is approximate based on a representative sample ;) identical silver stores, every one of which we investigated in hopes that we would be able to locate and purchase a particular necklace Jenny had envisioned. (This is how she does most of her shopping, actually.) We were not successful. However, PDC is also wealthy in gelato stores, which soothed the savage beast somewhat. Also, we bought a liter of good but inexpensive tequila and some kahlua. Then it was back to the ship for snoozing.

January 10, 2006

Cruise: Day 4

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 4 (Belize)

Jenny and I took our first steps away from dependence on the cruise line today; we got off the boat without a shore excursion planned, but hired a local tour company to take us to the Community Baboon Sanctuary (CBS) outside Belize City. They're not, of course, actual baboons (which only live in Africa and Asia), but black Howler Monkeys, the local slang term for which is baboon. Our tour guide for the day was Reggie, who was dare I say waxed loquacious on all things Belizean. Among other tidbits, he told us that a Texan named (of course) Tex had purchased an entire island just off the coast. Islands in Belize are surprisingly affordable for Americans (in the neighborhood of $250,000--sans house, of course). Tex is apparently a "nice guy", since he allows the locals to use his beach for barbeques, provided they clean up after themselves. We heard about another Texan (not named Tex; that would be too confusing) who owned a truly huge mansion. Of course, it wasn't a patch on the American Embassy in Belize, which spans (I am not kidding) roughly six city blocks, all dutifully flying the Stars and Stripes.

Anyway, as I said, Reggie had been engaged to ferry us to the CBS and back, which he did, after a semi-thorough tour of what he called "uppity-town" (the wealthy section, approximately 90% of whose inhabitants were expatriate Americans). :) Reggie was a delight of a tour guide and an informative way to spend several hours.

The CBS itself was very interesting. Despite only being about 18 inches tall and weighing maybe 40 pounds, howler monkeys are quite intimidating. The little black forms 30 feet up in the trees were making sounds that could be heard a mile away, and standing right under them is somewhat nerve-wracking, although we were assured they weren't aggressive towards humans. We saw several other interesting things on the trip, including a roughly millenium-old palm tree, a fern-like plant that "goes to sleep" when you touch it (folds up its leaves), and the opportunity to try cashew wine. Apparently the cashew is actually a fruit; the nut we generally eat is a single seed that, unusually for fruit, grows outside the fruit itself. They make wine from the fruit in Belize; I wanted to try it, but Jen wasn't game, so we passed.

All in all we both really liked Belize; it's actually not that far from Texas (2 days' drive, give or take), so we could go back if we wanted. Definitely a worthwhile stop.

Tonight was the night of the Maitre d'Hotel's wine tasting. While the Maitre D was in attendance, most of the talking was by various waiters; the best of whom ended up somehow talking into his wine glass and testing the aroma of his microphone, much to everyone's amusement. The only wine we particularly liked was something called a meritage, which was really quite tasty. Plus, Luigi (one of the head waiters, from Italy) hand-made us some very wonderful pasta in a spicy tomato-garlic sauce, and I'm a sucker for anything involving both garlic and capsaicin. ;)

Dinner was our second formal night (the first Jen and I attended, having skipped Pojarski night), so I wore my suit and Jen wore her Valentine's dress (in which she is dazzling, let me assure you). I have no recollection of what we ate, she's that distracting. ;)

January 9, 2006

Cruise: Day 3

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 3 (Costa Maya)

Puerto Costa Maya is a tiny enclave of buildings somewhat north of the Mexican city of Mahahual. It is also pure tourist trap, quite literally; it was built by the cruise companies so that they could anchor there. Being contrary, Jenny and I hoofed it the (maybe) 2 miles to Mahahual's outskirts, where we got caught in a surprisingly brisk little rainstorm. We sat down under cover at a little outdoor bar called the Cat's Meow. Having been (sick) in Mexico before, we had opted to pack our own lunch (sandwiches from Room Service), which was probably a good idea--or would have been, had Room Service's idea of a "sandwich" not consist of two playing-card sized pieces of bread with stuff between them. We'd have had to order about four each to make an actual sandwich. Nonetheless, we limited ourselves to a couple of Coronas (after determining that the waiter believed limes and lemons were the same fruit) and some nachos.

One of the things we noticed about Mahahual was that there were dogs (stray, not stray, who knows) everywhere. Jenny, being more generous than I, offered a particularly friendly dog part of her avocado sandwich. Now, this was not a fat dog by any means, but he turned up his nose at that sandwich as if he regularly ate off silver--which I found somewhat amusing.

Tonight we also made an amazing discovery. The Maitre d'Hotel does, in fact, exist. We met with him tonight; apparently some hitherto unknown grapevine had informed him that some head waiter had caused us distress. He wanted to know which head waiter. We did not know, but he did promise to look after us. He told us that henceforth, every evening we would be provided the menu for the next night, so that we could approve it or select a specially made dish instead. Our head waiter told us he would provide us stuffed peppers for dinner that night (which otherwise I believe would have been Pojarski-based again). They were tasty. Things are looking up.

Well, yes and no. The captain announces a surprise change of schedule due to a "technical problem" that means we need to stay in Belize all day (good, as we expect Belize to be very interesting), but will mean we go to Playa del Carmen instead of Grand Cayman Island. Oh, and they'll be providing a $75/person "goodwill credit" against our shipboard accounts. So that was the good (mostly). The bad is that they delivered a note to our stateroom saying that our credit card was declined.

This, too, is not unknown when we travel. Bank of America, bless their hearts, occasionally are overzealous in protecting our account. Last time we went to England they froze our account when we bought a cup of coffee in Gatwick airport. (And let me say, cross-Atlantic calls to unfreeze your account are not much fun.) So we figured this was something like that. It wasn't. Princess had taken down Jenny's card's expiration date wrong--despite the fact that we had entered the correct date online and they had a physical card impression. We fixed the problem, hopefully.

January 8, 2006

Cruise: Day 2

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 2 (At Sea)

So since Jenny's birthday was going to occur while we were on the ship, I had previously contacted Princess to discuss a special dinner. The CSR I spoke with was very confident that this would be easily arranged. It was not. The first response I got was that Princess' vendors "could not procure" the items we had requested. The second response I got (after I modified my request) was that we should talk to the Maitre d'Hotel once onboard and he would "be happy to accommodate any request". Fine, no problem. In fact, we actually had two reasons to talk to the fellow, because the menu for that night (posted every morning, or available the night before on request) indicated that the vegetarian entree was something called "Vegetable Pojarski". Vegetable Pojarski is an (apparently) Polish invention which consists of squished up, mushy vegetables. I am not kidding. In this particular case the Pojarski was to be shaped into "cutlets" and pan-fried. Now, I recognize that Jenny and I are foodies, but mushed-up vegetable bits are something I expect to serve a newborn baby, not actual adults. So--off to see the Maitre D.

I use that phrase advisedly, as for several days we were convinced that the Maitre D, like the Wizard of Oz, did not actually exist. Our first try was the ship's phone directory. No entry. Next we tried the Purser's Desk. They told us to go to the dining room and ask for him. So, being literal people, we did. We were directed to a head waiter, who assured us that the Pojarski was "very good". We remained skeptical, but the head waiter claimed he had never heard of any such creature as a Maitre d'Hotel (I'm sorry, what was that? It sounds French, doesn't it?), but that the Pojarski was in fact wonderful. (He was, not surprisingly, not a vegetarian. One of the waitresses was, but we never discovered her views on Pojarski.)

Of course, a cruise ship offers a number of ways to acquire calories. So we avoided the dining room that night in favor of the fast food in the forward pool deck. Now, in the interest of fairness, I should point out that in order to efficiently use limited resources, the ship's kitchen will reuse a lot of items. One night you'll see asparagus soup, in addition to several asparagus sides, etc etc. So it wasn't entirely a surprise when Jenny and I had so-called "veggie burgers", which turned out to be Pojarski on a bun. I assure you, it was entirely unappetizing. Even on a bun with lettuce, tomato, onions, ketchup, and mustard. The fries were good, though.

Jenny and I also attended a wine tasting, at which we were invited to partake in a "much more expensiveexclusive" wine tasting, hosted by none other than the Maitre d'Hotel. We speculated on whether this would prove to be a waiter in a tux. We did, of course, decide to attend (who could resist?). We didn't like any of the wines in this first tasting. :-P

January 7, 2006

Cruise: Day 1

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So Jenny and I are off to take our cruise. For various reasons (not least that internet time onboard is something like $5 a minute), I am posting these after the fact. Pictures of the cruise are available here. The full list of cruise posts is available here.

Cruise: Day 1 (Embarkation at Galveston)

The day started with something of a panic (not that this is unusual in our travels; quite the opposite). We were supposed to drop the dogs off at Dog Boys Dog Ranch before driving to Galveston (which according to MapQuest and AAA was about 4 hours' drive) and embarking the ship (which had to be accomplished before 4pm). Unfortunately, we discovered yesterday night that Dog Boys does not open until 10am on Saturdays, which didn't leave us much time to get the dogs settled, drive through Houston (well known as a terrible town for traffic), get all our stuff onto the boat, etc. However, we arrived at Dog Boys at 9:30 to find that they had opened a little early, which was convenient for us. The dogs didn't even stop to say goodbye; as soon as the door to the Dog Boys backyard was opened, they were off with nary a backwards glance. This, too, is entirely normal. :)

So off we went, initially via about 20 miles of largely twisting, turning, tiny, unlabeled little country roads, to Galveston. About 45 minutes before Houston, we saw a sign for Panera--and, being as we don't have Panera in Austin, we pretty much had to stop. Unfortunately, we thought we were in a grand hurry, so we pretty much wolfed down our food. Still, it was quite tasty. We miss Panera.

As it turned out, we actually arrived earlier than we should have. For future reference, when Princess tells you that you are signed up for "express check-in", they actually mean "you will be standing in line with every other US citizen boarding this ship, sucker". This was the first hint that things would not always work out the way we had hoped or expected.

So after interminable boarding lines (these people could learn a thing or two from Disney World), we were on the boat. However, the day before, Princess had notified us that they had "upgraded" our cabin--rather than an interior cabin, we were now receiving an outer cabin (with a window and 8 more square feet of space). Unfortunately, while we got the message, nobody else actually on the ship did. Thus, for the entire week, nearly everything intended for our cabin (shore excursion tickets, sodas, bathrobes, Happy Birthday balloons) went to our old cabin, while nearly everything intended for the original inhabitants (a bottle of wine, their luggage, etc) was delivered to us (it wasn't even good wine; we sent it back ;). Which was, to put it mildly, not the best way to start our cruise (nor, for that matter, to end it).

Dinner was good. Make note of this, it will come up later.

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